Swamp Cabbage Festival celebrates staple of pioneer diet

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The LaBelle Swamp Cabbage Festival celebrates the Florida pioneers and the state tree. How did the pioneers learn the heart of a Sabal Palm tree is both tasty and nutritious? They likely learned which plants were safe to eat from the Native Americans.

According to Florida Memory Project, the tradition of eating hearts of Florida palm trees likely predates the arrival of Europeans in North America.

Captain Hugh Young, Andrew Jackson’s topographical engineer, included information on the subject in his notes regarding the territory between the Aucilla and Suwannee rivers in 1818. He wrote: “In the cypress swamps between Assilla and Sahwanne there is abundance of cabbage palmetto. … It rises with a single stem to the height of 40 feet and supports at the top a large mass resembling an immense pineapple, from which project a number of three-sided stems three or four feet long with leaves like the low palmetto but much larger and without prickles. The vegetable substance from which the stems and leaves are supported has in its center a white brittle mucilaginous mass composed of the centre folds of the leaves forming it, which may be eaten raw and when boiled has a taste somewhat like parsnips. In times of scarcity the Indians live on it, and it is said to be wholesome and nutritious.”

Florida Memory Project explains, “As incoming settlers learned about swamp cabbage and began experimenting with it, it became a favorite side dish, especially in sparsely populated areas where the sabal (or cabbage) palmetto was more prevalent. In modern times, swamp cabbage can still be found on the menus of restaurants serving traditional Southern cooking. It is typically prepared by slicing up the heart of a section of palmetto trunk, called a ‘boot,’ and then stewing it with spices and salt pork or some other seasoning meat. The finished product is grayish-green in color, and pairs well with fried fish, pork, or other traditional Florida entrees.  Swamp cabbage can also be enjoyed raw, and often appears in salads by the more refined name of heart of palm.”

This photo shows heads of Sabal Palmetto before the center core is removed.  [Photo by James Stephens/UF/IFAS]
This photo shows heads of Sabal Palmetto before the center core is removed. [Photo by James Stephens/UF/IFAS]

The Seminole Tribe website offers this recipe for Swamp Cabbage:

“Cut out the heart of the cabbage palm. Strip off the outer hard tough fronds to reach the actual white heart. This is the most tender part and should be cut into 1/2-inch strips or cubes. Cook slowly in very little water for 20-30 minutes, adding two tablespoons of cane syrup or sugar and salt to taste. Stir frequently to prevent sticking.”

In this photo circa 1950 Everglades guide George L. Espenlaub prepares swamp cabbage.
In this photo circa 1950 Everglades guide George L. Espenlaub prepares swamp cabbage.

Cabbage Palm trees about 8 to 10 feet in height are cut for the delicacy. Cutting the top off the tree kills the palm.  According to the Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences publication, “Cabbage, Swamp -- Sabal Palmetto,” although the swamp cabbage tree grows wild, it is protected from indiscriminate cutting by its designation as Florida's state tree. Yet, large numbers of swamp cabbage are cut and sold each year, mostly as a prelude to land-clearing operations.

“To remove the central core (heart), the outer leaf stems are cut away and the trunk is severed about 3 feet below the bud. Fronds have a woody base, called a boot, which wraps around the trunk.

“At this stage, the untrimmed swamp cabbage weighs 10–15 pounds. At preparation time, boots are stripped from the 3-foot long section until the tender, closely wrapped central core is reached.

When the outer leaves are cleaned off, the center core is called the “heart” of the palm.
When the outer leaves are cleaned off, the center core is called the “heart” of the palm.

“The central core is the part called swamp cabbage. It is cylindrical in shape, creamy white in color, and composed of layers of undeveloped boots (leaves) with the consistency, tenderness, and texture of regular cabbage. The trimmed edible product may weigh 5–10 pounds.

“Following trimming, the swamp cabbage may be prepared in various ways. The most popular old cracker way is to cut into thin slices like cole slaw and cook with meat seasoning until done. After the swamp cabbage is cooked, the white color changes to a grayish brown. The unique flavor is best described as smoky and wild. Traditional cooking often takes place outdoors over a camp stove or an open fire. Another popular method of preparation is to slice the cabbage and place the thin raw pieces into a tossed salad. A pinch of dates or spoonful of guava paste adds the final touch. This delightful dish is hearts of palm salad.

“Remember, the cabbage palm is the state tree of Florida. Since the utilization of the palm for food necessitates the total destruction of the tree, authorization must be obtained before cutting.”

The Swamp Cabbage hearts for the festival come from ranchers usually who are clearing trees on their land.

This Swamp Cabbage recipe came from Allen`s Historical Café in Auburndale, Fla.

SWAMP CABBAGE

Six servings

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 3 to 4 hours

6 slices smoked bacon

1 cup water

Small head swamp cabbage (cut out tender part inside the palm) or 2 cans hearts of palm

6 slices smoked bacon

1 cup water

Small head swamp cabbage (cut out tender part inside the palm) or 2 cans hearts of palm

Salt and pepper to taste

  1. Fry bacon until crisp in frying pan; drain and retain grease.
  2. Crumble the fried bacon and add to a saucepan along with bacon grease, water and cabbage palm. Simmer, covered, until tender, 3 to 4 hours. (Cooking time will be less if using canned hearts of palm.) Add water as needed -- salt and pepper to taste.

In a heart of palm salad as prepared by the Seabreeze Restaurant in Cedar Key in 2014, the tartness of the heart of palm was complemented by the sweetness of fresh fruit and pistachio ice cream.
In a heart of palm salad as prepared by the Seabreeze Restaurant in Cedar Key in 2014, the tartness of the heart of palm was complemented by the …
This Swamp Cabbage recipe written by Cara Harne of Estero  recipe appears to date to around 1975
This Swamp Cabbage recipe written by Cara Harne of Estero recipe appears to date to around 1975

         

swamp cabbage, Florida, pioneers

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